Tendrils of steam curl out of the bread basket, spreading a warm, yeasty scent as my server unfurls the linen cover to reveal a plump kind of sourdough with a golden-brown crust.
"We specialised in working with a fragile and elusive product with a minuscule shelf life... and though we faced challenges in sourcing quality fish due to rising prices, our commitment to excellence meant that we could not compromise on our standards. Consequently, we decided to close Orasay on New Year's Eve, leaving a bittersweet but proud legacy of quality seafood dining in Notting Hill."
As the East Coast Thomas Keller outpost, Per Se has been under more than typical scrutiny over the past two decades. Both Yountville, California's French Laundry, and Per Se maintain a whopping three Michelin stars - and Per Se has kept them for 17 years running.