Endo Kazutoshi was on the train to Paris when he heard about the fire that had destroyed his restaurant, Endo at the Rotunda, located on the eighth floor of the Helios building. The fire had started on a terrace and quickly spread, affecting the dining room and kitchen, built mostly from 200-year-old hinoki wood.
Osaka, Japan's third largest city after Tokyo and Yokohama, has a youthful energy to it. Locals love it for tabearuki, which literally means walking and eating at the many shotengai-covered arcades, lined with stalls and tempting street food.
When the students or workers don't have money, it is easy to grab it and go. It's cheap, that's how we started it. When people don't want to spend a lot of money for lunch, it's five bucks, and you're satisfied.
Living in Japan in the early 2000s, Fralick fell in love with an Italian restaurant in the city of Shizuoka, where he ate Italian food, but with Japanese influences, like pastas made with uni and the fermented soybeans known as natto. "It really reminded me of home," says Fralick, who grew up in upstate New York and started his cooking career in Italian fine dining.
Pizza toast is a throwback snack popularized in Japan's classic kissaten coffee shops. The first kissaten to serve pizza toast - milk bread topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella and pizza toppings, toasted until the cheese is melted and bubbling - is reportedly Cafe Benisica in Tokyo, in 1964, which is still operating. The key to this version is to first make toasty garlic bread, and I use marinara instead of the yoshoku ("Western-style food") tradition of making a ketchup-based tomato sauce.
Fall's scarlet and gold was fading from the mountains around Sapporo as I sat with a small group around a heavy wood table with a charcoal grill in the center. We watched a chef cook channel rockfish over the coals. This northern Japanese delicacy is cherished for its meltingly sweet flesh, which takes on a light pink color because of the species' shrimp-heavy diet.
The caviar, uni, and egg dish has been in Akiyama's repertoire since he worked at the now-closed NYC restaurant Lan. It's presented as a rich chawanmushi, topped with generous uni and caviar. The nigiri course comes with three pieces, including the aori aka, in which the bigfin reed squid is chopped and intricately layered; the texture was far creamier than I ever expected squid to be.
What once began as a shared meal in Tokyo during the pandemic has become a cultural exchange. This is a dialogue between Tokyo and New York told through dough, fire, and simplicity. Long before the residency was even announced, the foundation for it had already begun in Tokyo.
Annabel's, which is owned by Richard Caring and located on Berkeley Square in Mayfair, has announced it will be home to the Michelin-starred sushi expert Endo Kazutoshi for five months as a pop-up. Annabel's usually charges an annual fee of 3,250, but will now allow the public to book tables regardless of whether they are a club member. But the much-coveted London party spot will still maintain strict house rules diners will not be allowed to use their phones, wear perfume or submit dietary requests.
Sour like lemon, bitter like grapefruit, sweet like mandarins and tangy like oranges, yuzu might be the consummate citrus and it brings all of that complex magic to this light, clean noodle broth. Yuzu-miso soba noodle soup. Yuzu is a citrus, but it's not very common to find it outside of Japan. So mostly we can use yuzu juice. Add five cups of vegetable stock or vegetarian dashi.
In a city devoted to discovery, the most seductive destinations rarely announce themselves. They reveal themselves gradually tucked above the noise, hovering just beyond the obvious, waiting for those willing to travel a little farther west, toward the luminous threshold where Manhattan dissolves into river and sky. Perched atop Pier 57, Miru embodies that sense of arrival. The rooftop listening lounge overlooks the Hudson like a secluded aerie, where the measured tempo of Tokyo listening culture meets the charged rhythm of New York after dark.
Tse was not raised cooking Japanese food and, in preparation for opening The Azuki Room, travelled to Tokyo to train at the Japan Culinary Institute. He told me a bit about this process, but where his resilience has really been tested is in London. The Azuki Room was due to open in 2025 but suffered a series of unfortunate events: the site was occupied by squatters, the premises were damaged, stock and equipment were stolen, and the specialist sake Tse bought in Japan was consumed.
When it opened in 2021, Brixton Market's Temaki quickly became a hit with the city's sushi aficionados. The restaurant, which was London's first dedicated to handroll sushi, received a Time Out reviewer's praise for its 'triple whammy of expertise, exceptional produce and classy execution'. Alas, the south London Temaki wasn't to last. The California-style sushi joint shut its Brixton outpost last summer. Now, however, Temaki has announced a grand return to the city - this time in central London. A new location will open on Mayfair's Maddox Street
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Philadelphia restaurateur Michael Schulson opens Double Knot tomorrow, Wednesday, February 18, at 1251 Avenue of the Americas at West 50th Street; it's the first New York location of the Philadelphia restaurant that originally opened in 2016. The sprawling new space brings a 12,000-square-foot, bi-level izakaya to a Midtown corner across from Rockefeller Center that's been trying to reinvent itself for at least five years.
New York's pop-up pizza calendar just got a serious international upgrade. From February 24 through February 28, cult-favorite Tokyo pizzeria Seirinkan will temporarily swap Shibuya for the Bowery, taking over the kitchen at modern Japanese restaurant Sake No Hana for a five-night residency that blends neo-Neapolitan pizza with Lower Manhattan energy. If you're deep in the pizza rabbit hole, the name Susumu Kakinuma probably rings a bell.
The project comes from a deep bench of hospitality heavyweights: Jimmy Rizvi, the restaurateur behind Bungalow, and Kanvar Singh, of Midtown's ever-popular Elsie Rooftop, lead the partnership along with beverage director Hirotomo Akutsu, formerly of Tokyo's Bar Trench (ranked 94th on the World's 50 Best Bars 2025) and creative director Rio Azmee of Shinka Ramen. Every detail, from the way a cocktail is built to the way the room feels, is deliberate.
Bar Japonais had only been open about a year and a half when it shut down for a rebrand. The 14th Street restaurant was initially billed as a French-Japanese izakaya with a lot of fusion dishes and limited sushi. But it turned out the main thing diners wanted was, in fact, sushi, especially after the restaurant brought in chef Masaaki "Uchi" Uchino, the Sushi Nakazawa alum behind Kiyomi omakase counter.
