Down a narrow flight of stairs off a nondescript stretch of East 50th Street, past a ceramics studio and behind a clothing boutique, is the 14-seat restaurant Hori. Technically, anyone is welcome inside the izakaya, divided into an eight-seat bar and a six-seat room, although reservations are required and even the most vigilant stalkers of the Resy page will find that there are not actually reservations available for the restaurant, ever.