The painting in question was gifted to the Inn's late founder Helmuth Deetjen by the late, celebrated local artist George Choley. This particular Choley painting had been in the same place since the 1980s, undisturbed, and a symbol of continued historic preservation.
"Being selected for The Guide also means that the establishment is already on Inspectors' radar, so it could receive other awards in the future. MICHELIN-selected restaurants are sometimes promoted to Stars or Bib Gourmands in subsequent years."
At restaurants in Italy, an average of 10 to 15 percent is appreciated. When it comes to drivers and tour guides, the average is 10 percent, but many leave more.
Past a sign for a family waterpark, a door opens onto an homage to fin-de-siècle Paris. Chandeliers are reflected in gilt-edged mirrors; there is a chorus line of lobsters and yards of fromage. Every so often, a waiter in a dinner suit flambées a crepe Suzette with a shock of flames, like a big top fire-eater. This is fine dining as buffet.
My friend Megumi, a classical musician from Tokyo who really likes to eat, takes trips to Sapporo "just for the food". She is not alone: the route between Tokyo's Haneda and Sapporo's New Chitose airports is one of the busiest domestic flight paths in Japan. Before I visited Sapporo, I called her. "Make sure to bring two stomachs," she advised. The city is the capital of Hokkaido, the most northerly of Japan's main islands, which contains more than 20 per cent of the country's landmass, but only about four per cent of its population. The island's cold waters are home to some of the world's most prized sea urchins and crabs, as well as much of the fish used by top sushi chefs. Fed by mountain springs, its unspoilt valleys are home to remarkably flavourful produce. And with its swathes of grazing land, Hokkaido is also the country's leading producer of beef, lamb and dairy: the last two ingredients are rarely used elsewhere in Japan, something that accounts for the character of eating in Sapporo.