#restaurant-criticism

#restaurant-criticism

The tasting menu has long represented the pinnacle of chefly ambition. And for years now, restaurant critics have complained about it. In 2012, Pete Wells described the "trapped, helpless sensation" he felt facing "a marathon of dishes chosen by the restaurant." Three months later, Corby Kummer, in Vanity Fair, decried the "subjugation to the will of the creative genius" that is required to enjoy a degustation. Adam Platt, my predecessor, memorably wrote about his own "tasting mennui" in 2022. Chefs keep at it anyway.

In his previous role, Sontag oversaw Bon Appétit's Best New Restaurants list, which most recently included Baan Mae and La'Shukran among 18 other restaurants across the country. He also helped launch a column on restaurant etiquette and led a magazine feature on queer food culture that was nominated for multiple National Magazine Awards. He previously worked at Eater and Serious Eats and has freelanced for the Post.

Bourdain called Fieri a "d**che" in a charity roast and frequently mocked his flamboyant style.

Tejal: It's exactly that: dreamy and daunting. I have a running list of all the things I'm worried about, and my therapist is on vacation this week I'll save it for her!