In a provocative recounting, San Francisco Chronicle critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan reveals that renowned chef Thomas Keller asked her to leave the French Laundry restaurant during her visit. This unusual incident stems from Keller's anxiety over the perception of critics, evidencing a shift in relationships between chefs and food writers. While Fegan ultimately stayed to enjoy the meal and a kitchen tour, the encounter raises questions about the evolving landscape of culinary critique and highlights the emotional toll it takes on high-profile chefs like Keller, revealing their complex feelings towards public judgment.
Fegan recounts she was asked to leave the French Laundry due to Keller's discomfort with her presence, signaling a growing tension between chefs and critics.
Keller expresses a longing for the past when critics and chefs collaborated, a time he believes has been eroded by changing media landscapes.
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