Hearthfire centers the room visually and aromatically. Portions are delicate, fine-dining-small, yet ultimately satisfying and inspired. The vision of Zimmerman, Tan and Lieuw's cooking shines more broadly now since seafood and veggies play prominent roles.
From the 'Chilled' section, the standout is the unreal caviar sundae. Sour-tart crème fraîche ice cream pairs with local caviar. The surprise comes in preserved white asparagus, adding a vegetal silkiness and slight crunch.
Even ubiquitous crudo holds its surprises. A Hawaiian yellowfin tuna is cured in spruce oil and enhances the earthy notes in fish. The spruce elevates this beyond just another crudo to a Hawaii-meets-alpine vibe.
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