At César in Soho and Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare in Hell's Kitchen, the higher the hat, the closer to God.
César is new and Brooklyn Fare is newly updated, though both restaurants come with a provenance others do not.
The risk was rewarded; in 2010, the restaurant earned two Michelin stars. In 2012, Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare was upgraded to three.
but some of the haute counters of yore have closed (Ko) or been overhauled (Blanca, now under the care of Victoria Blamey).
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