As I leafed through Najmieh Batmanglij's wonderful book Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies, it was her khoreshes delicate, refined braises that were clearly calling, inspiring my Persian tofu.
A sweet ingredient (fruit in many of its forms, or simply an onion slowly sweated down) works alongside a sour one (dried or fresh lime, some tangy yogurt or those barberries) to bring contrast and, ultimately, balance to a dish.
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