Water is a beautiful thing and I just want people to experiment and enjoy it in a way that they've never done before, says Binder, 53, whose brimming passion gives his speech a staccato energy. Sensing my scepticism, he tells me it's OK to laugh at the concept of water connoisseurship. I've been trying to get restaurants to do this for years and I think people are nervous, because you're either going to be a pioneer or a joke.