Compilers of the list explain what it takes to make the cut: delicious food, a mastery of craft, generosity of spirit, and a singular point of view. Fourteen reporters and editors spread across the country experienced 200 meals in 33 states, showing up unannounced and accepting no freebies. When landing in Philadelphia, Mawn and Meetinghouse took the cake, as the saying goes.
Bong (a Khmer term of endearment and respect) is her first permanent restaurant. Open since June, Bong actually started announcing itself sometime in mid-July, and it remains open only Friday through Sunday. Its outdoor patio is a couple of lawn tables on the concrete, and it didn't receive a license to sell beer and wine until mid-August, after I'd visited. Reservations go quickly, and the place is too small to accept walk-ins. On top of it all, Un is nine months' pregnant.