Socca, 41a South Audley Street, London W1K 2PS (020 3376 0000).Small plates 9-35, pasta dishes 18-48, mains 25-66, desserts 12, wines from 47 Fancy Mayfair restaurants are full of older people wearing young people's shirts.Every night these tables are a study in the abject fear of mortality.Bring on the Botox and the fillers and the inappropriate piped music they're pretending to like.
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