The American steak house, once synonymous with expense-account dining, is making a notable comeback thanks to chefs like Daniel Boulud. While its once-untouchable status waned with the rise of eclectic dining experiences, the steak house remains resilient, especially in cities like New York. This resurgence reflects a broader cultural narrative that embraces traditional values and familiar comforts, appealing especially to those nostalgic for mid-century social norms and experiences. Steak houses blend heritage and accessibility, poised once again as favorite locations for significant personal and professional gatherings.
"The American steak house was the ne plus ultra of expense-account dining and billfold flexing... but over time, its totemic simplicity fell out of fashion."
"The rise of trad wives, the end of the flu vaccine, 'quiet luxury'... might come as a restoration of the proper order, a glorious, carnivorous relief."
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