The Secret History of Risotto
Briefly

The dish is governed by a set of laws that are rooted in tradition, rich in common sense, and aching to be broken or bent.
I feasted, almost cracking the plate with my scraping, and silently vowed that I would try to re-create such food-or a ghost of it.
Making risotto is a breeze. You melt a bit of butter, sauté some chopped onion, and add rice, stirring often.
Some recipes are onion-free. Others drop the wine. The fundamentals melt away, and this is where trouble starts.
Read at The New Yorker
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