Three ex-Horses chefs have created L.A.'s true pop-up of the moment

"Tuna carpaccio arranged in a circle arrived first, the slices beaming ruby like sun through stained glass. Radicchio leaves had been dressed with kefir and gorgonzola, the tart and the sweet funk offsetting the bitter. Clams, splashed in bright and herby broth, were paired with a narcotic mound of thin fries."

"Starry little specks of pastina had been cooked in Parmesan-enriched brodo, flecked with saffron and finished with a thick pat of butter. Perhaps risotto alla Milanese had been the inspirational spark, but the result ended up tasting like very savory, luxurious oatmeal. It was strange, and it was wonderful."

"Bruce is the name of Ha's infant son. The trio had taken over the tiny open kitchen at Cafe Triste in Chinatown three nights a week through February. The reservations had been snapped up for the night, but we agreed to meet there and take our chances."

Bruce is a pop-up restaurant in Chinatown operated by three chefs—Brittany Ha, Hannah Grubba, and Alex Riley—who lost their jobs when Horses restaurant closed in December. Named after Ha's infant son, the pop-up runs three nights weekly through February at Cafe Triste's tiny open kitchen. The restaurant serves inventive dishes including tuna carpaccio with radicchio dressed in kefir and gorgonzola, clams in herby broth with thin fries, and pastina cooked in Parmesan broth with saffron and butter. The menu features creative presentations, such as puff pastry swans filled with banana pudding for Valentine's week, combining Italian inspiration with unexpected flavor combinations and luxurious execution.

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