"No Ricotta. Never": I Asked an Italian Chef His Secrets to the Best-Tasting Lasagna
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"No Ricotta. Never": I Asked an Italian Chef His Secrets to the Best-Tasting Lasagna
"Francesco is the chef and owner of Ceci's Gastronomia in Silverlake, Los Angeles. He grew up in Genoa, Italy, where he learned to cook with his grandmother, who resided in the Emiglia-Romagna region of Italy. There, he spent summers preparing and cooking fresh pasta, pastries, salads, and snacks. This style of home cooking served as the basis for Ceci's, with many of the restaurant's recipes coming directly from Italian nonnas."
""No ricotta. Never," Francesco blurts out immediately when asked for lasagna tips, "This is the thing I want to point out first. It's the most common question I get at Ceci's." Ricotta simply doesn't fit Francesco's platonic ideal of lasagna, which he describes as having three essential building blocks- pasta, Bolognese, and béchamel sauce. While ricotta is a hard no, the Bolognese is a bit more fluid; in Francesco's native region of Liguria, pesto often replaces meat sauce."
Lasagna in Italy differs from American versions in pasta-sheet style, fillings, and portion sizes. Francesco Lucatorto grew up in Genoa, learned cooking from his grandmother in Emiglia-Romagna, and bases restaurant recipes on nonnas' home cooking. Ceci's serves lasagna with meat Bolognese or with Ligurian pesto. The platonic lasagna comprises three essential elements: pasta, Bolognese (or regional alternative), and béchamel sauce. Ricotta is rejected as incompatible with that ideal. Regional variations include pesto replacing meat sauce in Liguria and ingredients such as prosciutto or mushrooms further south. Professional and familial techniques inform the preparation.
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