Every couple of weeks, I catch the number 8 bus to meet my friend Alice and go to a market in Monteverde. Conveniently, the bus stops right next to the market, which is known by the name of the square it fills: San Giovanni di Dio. There are big plans to redesign it completely, but for now this busy market remains a Tetris-like arrangement of iron boxes arranged in the late 1950s.
Especially at this time of year, like markets all over the northern hemisphere, they are piled with good-value greens and cabbages, celeriac, chicory, and chestnuts, apples, pears, and glowing persimmons. In Italy, persimmons are among the finest offerings, as it stands as the fourth largest producer after China, Japan, and Brazil and takes the name kaki.
Sadahiro Hamasaki explains that kaki's ancestors emerged in south-east Asia tens of millions of years ago, evolved further in China, before making their way to Japan about 1,400 years ago. There are more than 1,000 different varieties of kaki in Japan.
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