I was sceptical about tasting the jam off the spoon... Reassured by the purists, I dive in. The first one I try is Keya Jam, a marmalade made from citrus taiwanica, a fruit endemic to the forests of Miaoli in Taiwan. The marmalade is the perfect blend of sweet and bitter: honey notes come through more powerfully at the end and melt away the sharper taste of the citrus taiwanica.