It's an event so rare that it has only happened 11 times in the past 41 years, and when it's anticipated to run, all of Hawaii turns its attention to the North Shore of Oahu. People arrive a day or two ahead, sleeping in cars or tents on the side of the highway that leads to Waimea Bay and tailgating into the night to claim a sliver of parking. They're waiting to hear if the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational surfing contest, also called the Eddie for short, will get the green light from the lifeguards, who have the final say.
Nazaré, Portugal, historically a fishing village, has become mecca for big wave surfing. It's home to the largest waves ever surfed, and hosts some of the best surfing competitions in the world. Surfing this area is risky enough, but big mountain skier and surfer Chuck Patterson had to take it to the next level, skiing the world's biggest waves. Tow skiing, as they've named this wild activity, is arguably pretty dangerous no matter the size of the wave.
Big wave rider Conor Maguire managed the feat last week at Mullaghmore Head, which is described as one of Europe's most dangerous and respected big wave locations, drawing surfers to Ireland's west coast from around the world.
Fear is always present, but it is about knowing how to conquer that fear. The first time I saw the really huge waves coming at me, I thought: "This is a mountain of water coming in our direction, wanting to eat us alive." It was very scary - and it still is. Every time I go into the ocean to surf, there is always fear.
