"Learning to catch waves has helped me rebuild myself, and find a vein of dedication and strength that I deeply needed to find. I'm not the only one."
"Surfers, he says, 'often talk as if they have found a secret in life.' "
"The first time I ever caught an unbroken wave was one of the greatest moments of my life. The memory is crystalline, perfect: the glistening aquamarine curl extending away from me."
"Many hours of spluttering, messy effort to suddenly be so effortlessly, elegantly in tune with the shape of a wave."
After a painful divorce, feelings of loneliness prompted an individual to take up surfing in Portugal. Despite initial struggles, persistence in the sport led to a sense of rebirth and newfound dedication. Surfing embodies much more than a cliché lifestyle; it serves as a sanctuary for those in pain. Notably, champions like Sam Bleakley describe surfing as a pathway to healing, where individuals discover deeper truths about life. The exhilarating experience of catching a wave marked a pivotal moment, showcasing the profound joy in overcoming difficulties and attuning to nature's rhythm.
Read at Aeon
Unable to calculate read time
Collection
[
|
...
]