The perfect storm in a glass: The threats darkening Spanish wine's horizon

"Famous Wine Country Fought Over. Such was the headline in The New York Times on September 11, 1944. The French and Americans have been fighting the Germans over perhaps the most famous vineyards in the worldthe Burgundy district [] How much damage has been done to this heritage has not yet been reliably assessed, but, according to many reports, the Germans had already gone a good distance toward the total ruination of the envied countryside, ran the article."

"That's all changed in the last 81 years. Global consumption of wine was estimated at 214 million hectoliters in 2024 seven million fewer than in 2023. Young people are drinking less, production costs are rising, bottle prices growing, geopolitics are in an uncertain state and climate change is causing the harvest season to begin in July. Who would have imagined back in 1944, when people were risking their lives for their vineyards, that even the United Kingdom and Cameroon would be manufacturing wine?"

"All that's left is to adapt, sums up Quim Vila, founder of Vila Viniteca, one of the more prestigious names in the wine business. During his first administration, [Trump had] already levied 20%, Vila recalls. Biden brought that back down to 10%. But it's not just the tariffs: it's the world's instability, he adds. That's a much bigger issue. In 2024, consumption in Spain stood at 987 million liters (a rise of 2.5%). Exports fell 5.7% in the first 11 months of the 2024/2025 season."

Global wine consumption dropped to an estimated 214 million hectoliters in 2024, seven million fewer than 2023. Younger consumers are drinking less while production costs and bottle prices continue to rise. Geopolitical tensions and fluctuating tariffs place additional pressure on traditional exporters. Climate change is shifting harvests earlier, with seasons beginning in July in some areas. Spain saw a modest consumption increase to 987 million liters even as exports fell 5.7% in the first 11 months of the 2024/2025 season. New producers in countries such as the United Kingdom and Cameroon are expanding production, increasing global competition and prompting adaptation.

Read at english.elpais.com