Natural Wine Grows Up
Briefly

Lee Campbell has played a pivotal role in New York's natural wine movement for over two decades, establishing her reputation through her work with shops and restaurants. As the wine director at a New York dining room, she aims to cultivate a wine list that emphasizes traditional craftsmanship amidst the current abundance of natural wines. Reflecting on her experience, Campbell notes that greater acceptance and understanding of these wines enable a diverse selection that appeals to a wider consumer base, moving beyond the elitism she once encountered.
I know that wines are going deeper and deeper into the natural realm, and I don't mind it. Having a wide playing field is fun.
When I came into the industry, we were excited about grower Champagne, and we were excited about Grüner Veltliner and we were excited about Piedmont.
I saw one path that was unfolding toward a more conventional wine industry and a more predictable elitism.
Building the list now, when natural wine is everywhere, has been a different kind of learning experience.
Read at Grub Street
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