Serhii Kovalov, owner of the Slavnyi Horod restaurant in Sloviansk, Eastern Ukraine, faces the challenges of war to serve sushi—a trend popular among locals. Despite his personal dislike for sushi, Kovalov responds to customer demand by sourcing fresh fish, even as Russian forces intensify their attacks. His dedication stems from a commitment to provide a sense of comfort and normality for residents amidst the ongoing conflict, as many consider fleeing the increasingly dangerous town. Kovalov's actions reflect a deep resilience in the face of adversity.
Sushi has long been wildly popular in Ukraine, and for people in Sloviansk, this treat provides a sense of much-needed normalcy.
When Sloviansk came under attack in February 2022 when Russia's full-scale invasion began, sushi wasn't even on the menu at Mr. Kovalov's restaurant.
I know I'm needed here, the 30-year-old Mr. Kovalov said, gesturing at the restaurant and the town outside that has long been in Russia's cross hairs.
Now, as Russian forces have drawn closer and life gets more bleak, many Sloviansk residents are weighing whether to flee. Not Mr. Kovalov.
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