Whenever I talked to David Bouley, the exacting, pioneering American chef who died on Monday at age 70, out would pour a torrent of ideas, beliefs, theories, nutritional research, probiotic preservation methods, ethnographic histories and plans for harnessing all this knowledge to improve health and save lives through restaurants.
First, though, you had to pay attention to where and how and when they were grown. Other chefs were starting to wake up to this around the same time, but Mr. Bouley, raised on a farm in Connecticut, had a head start. Carrying the innovations of French nouvelle cuisine into American food, he made sauces out of vegetables and herbs instead of butter and cream.
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