Fine dining and taco trucks can belong on the same best-restaurants list without diminishing either. Street-corner food can be more perfect in its specific form, served warmer and more directly than dishes that miss marks in a tasting setting. Each restaurant should be evaluated on its own terms: what it aims to achieve, whether it succeeds, and whether that goal is worth pursuing. Rankings should avoid limiting the list to places most New Yorkers cannot afford or have no interest in trying. Including taco trucks makes the list accessible and reflects the city’s strong street-food scene.
"I don't think it diminishes a fine-dining restaurant to stand alongside a taco truck. Nothing is being taken away. Oh my God, I just got a little I just welled up a little bit. So, it is possible that the dumplings that you eat on the street corner are more perfect in what they are, and are delivered to you with more warmth, than you might find at a tasting counter where the food doesn't hit all its marks and the ambiance is a little chilly."
"So each restaurant, I think, needs to be taken on its own terms. That's the best that we can do as critics. You approach a restaurant on its own terms. What is it trying to achieve? Does it achieve it? Is it a good thing to achieve what they want? And so that's where these crazy rankings, that's where it comes from. It's thinking about each restaurant at its level, and what it's able to do."
"It just would be absurd to have a list of the best restaurants in the city be only restaurants that the vast majority of New Yorkers could never afford to go to. Or would have no, you know, native interest in experiencing, too. There's that too, so, I think that this is this list gives everyone can access you can go to one of the best restaurants in the city. It might be a taco truck, but you could go there. It makes it accessible."
"And frankly, we have some of the best taco trucks. Amen."
Read at www.nytimes.com
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