Thank goodness, then, for early winter sunsets, and low interior lighting, and food so fascinatingly delicious that you don't care where you're sitting to eat it.
His most famous dish at Blanca, a single raviolo filled with a tremendous portion of 'nduja (a fiery paste of pork and Calabrian chilies), its heat only barely tamed by a garnishing pinch of blood-orange zest, was a bite of genius: seductive, confrontational, utterly terrific.
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