This show-stopping triplex is a spectacle: A kid actually approached our table to ask if it was "real," then returned for a photo. Overall, the seafood is good, particularly the sweet, abundant lobster and briny oysters (the clams are a little funky and the shrimp not quite 100% deveined, albeit in a way that feels louche and French)—and the service is even better, with someone appearing at precisely the right moment to remove each tier, and offer towels and lemons for your hands. The real source of pleasure though is how infinite Le Balthazar feels.
This frosty, two-tier silver tower arrives at your table wreathed in dry ice smoke—and if you're taking video, your server will pour on more water to amp up the drama. Along with scraps of seaweed on the ice, it feels like watching surf create mist on a rocky beach, and the seafood is showcased beautifully.
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