Jean-Georges Vongerichten's new restaurant, Four Twenty Five, in a skyscraper on Park Avenue, is notable for featuring the renowned Jonathan Benno, whose previous establishments closed during the pandemic. This collaboration between two celebrated chefs, known for their contrasting styles—Vongerichten's bold, Asian-inflected dishes and Benno's ingredient-focused French and Italian fare—raises questions about how well their unique culinary philosophies will meld. Many menu options appear familiar, and while the ambiance of Four Twenty Five is chic and inviting, the challenge lies in crafting a cohesive dining experience.
The announcement that Jean-Georges Vongerichten was opening Four Twenty Five didn't surprise me; the real shocker was Jonathan Benno leading the kitchen, given his pedigree and past closures.
Collaboration between two celebrity chefs, Vongerichten and Benno, is rare, as their cooking styles diverge significantly, creating potential for challenge in merging their culinary philosophies.
Four Twenty Five's initial menu choices, such as fluke crudo and winter squash agnolotti, appear comfortingly familiar and risk veering toward the dull side, despite the chefs' talents.
The design of Four Twenty Five features a cantilevered mezzanine dining room, emphasizing a convivial bar atmosphere, which contrasts with the high culinary ambitions of the venue.
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