"Though Souza first guided visitors into the park 15 years ago, when he was still a teenager, it was his wife who grew up among these dunes, in an oasis known as Baixa Grande."
"Everything I know, I learned from her, and she learned everything she knows from growing up here," Souza told me as we walked past amphitheaters of sand and parabolas of water painted onto a cyclorama sky.
"In the literary record, though, I found practically nothing about the Lençóis, as the dune field is known for short, or the windblown coast to the east toward the Parnaíba River - nothing that placed people there at all."
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