I've been surfing for almost 20 years now, but you wouldn't guess it if you watched me.I'm the 30-something-year-old woman frolicking in the whitewash with the little tackers, whooping when I manage to stand up on a wave like a kid cycling for the first time without training wheels.After mornings full of spectacular stacks, I've spent many an afternoon slowly draining saltwater from my brain.
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