Where the Chefs Eat: Trevor Gulliver's favourite restaurants in London (and beyond)

"As I sit before an unctuous spread of bone marrow on toast and John Dory cooked to perfection, I am struck by the gentle voice that emanates across the table from my lunch date, Trevor Gulliver. Despite having founded St John, the very high bar by which London restaurants measure themselves, Trevor is utterly unaffected by his success, demonstrates no inkling of ego and insists on meeting me in person for our interview."

"But, that said, he has fire in his belly. Get him talking about celebrity chefs, anyone with a frying pan range in their name or endless television endorsements ("you should only do TV if you have a reason for it, a strategy," he insists), and it's clear he isn't impressed. Far from the social media, five-minute, one-pan wonder material that emanates daily through our ether, he talks of chefs such as Rowley Leigh, Alistair Little, and Simon Hopkinson with great admiration."

"With its restrained, industrial interior, the restaurant doesn't stand out aesthetically today, but when it opened its doors 30 years ago, its space, location, and menu were utterly groundbreaking. And no matter how many gastronomic greats with exposed stainless-steel interiors and concrete floors have opened since, nothing has knocked St John off the top spot."

Trevor Gulliver founded St John, which pioneered nose-to-tail eating and opened in 1994. The restaurant introduced a restrained, industrial aesthetic and a menu that was groundbreaking at the time. St John expanded into three restaurants, three bakeries, and a French vineyard, and achieved a Michelin star. Gulliver presents as gentle and unaffected by success while remaining passionate about culinary integrity. He admires traditional chefs such as Rowley Leigh, Alistair Little, and Simon Hopkinson, and criticizes celebrity-driven, television-focused cooking. He believes television work requires a clear reason and strategy. The original St John continues to influence London dining and retain top status.

Read at CN Traveller