Khao Bird, Soho Review | "It May Be Permanent But it's Still Riding That Pop-Up Energy"

"The space was once home to Soho's last surviving adult cinema, and it still hums with that energy: loud music, tightly packed tables and a sense of near chaos that nods to the buzz of its pop-up days. Sustainability also underpins the project. Khao Bird is B-Corp certified and committed to seasonal, local produce, working with Sussex suppliers including the 3,500-acre rewilding project Knepp Estate, alongside a network of small-scale London producers."

"Herbal chicken meatballs wrapped in caul fat, grilled and finished with a sticky cola glaze, they're labelled as "Ikea-style" on the menu, but honestly, they don't need the gimmicky lingo to sell them. The beef and Campari larb is another highlight. Essentially a Northern Thai take on steak tartare, the Campari brings a bitter edge that replaces an ingredient traditionally used in Thailand but rarely seen here: bile from a cow's stomach."

Khao Bird transitioned from a Borough Market pop-up to a permanent Soho restaurant serving Northern Thai-inspired cooking from chef Luke Larsson and restaurateur Mike Palmer. Fermentation, herbs, bitterness and heat shape a menu presented with playful dish names. The dining room retains a buzzy, almost chaotic energy—loud music, tightly packed tables and pop-up-style buzz. Sustainability is central: the restaurant is B-Corp certified and sources seasonal, local produce from suppliers including the Knepp Estate and small London producers. Standout dishes include Shan BBQ meatballs, beef and Campari larb, onglet steak with white curry and Chiang Mai BBQ chicken; the menu changes regularly. Drinks and cocktails match the playful, inventive food approach.

Read at London On The Inside