"There may not be a more expensive - or ambitious - restaurant in Los Angeles than Somni, a Spanish-inflected tasting menu from Aitor Zabala. Relocated to West Hollywood in late 2024, Somni earned three Michelin stars last year as a validation of Zabala's complete vision - one formulated over years of working at Spain's celebrated El Bullí, under José Andrés at minibar in D.C., and at the Bazaar in Los Angeles."
"Indeed, like theater, Somni feels as much about presentation and pageantry. Multiple cooks gather to serve each course of a 20-course dinner simultaneously. But the food remains intricate and winsome, full of trompe l'oeils and delightful misdirections."
"As recent events surrounding a certain Los Angeles residency have raised questions about the sustainability of fine dining and the treatment of workers in high-stakes, high price-tag environments, Somni's relative transparency introduces the notion of equity (since the dozen or so cooks also serve diners, they also take home a substantial amount of the gratuity)."
Somni represents one of Los Angeles's most expensive and ambitious dining experiences, led by chef Aitor Zabala. The restaurant earned three Michelin stars following its relocation to West Hollywood in late 2024. Zabala's expertise stems from prestigious positions at Spain's El Bullí, José Andrés's minibar in D.C., and the Bazaar in Los Angeles. The experience features a single seating with a 20-course tasting menu that begins on a shaded patio before moving to a semi-circular dining room. The presentation emphasizes theatrical elements with multiple cooks serving each course simultaneously. The cuisine employs modernist techniques with intricate details and playful misdirections. Notably, Somni addresses sustainability and worker equity concerns prevalent in fine dining by having cooking staff also serve diners, allowing them to share substantially in gratuities.
Read at Eater LA
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