L.A.'s sushi revolution was fueled by this secret ingredient from the Central Valley

Robin Koda navigated the levees of her family's rice farm with the grace of someone who has been moving among water, soil and grass her whole life.She wore jean overalls and a wide-brimmed woven hat that offered minimal protection from the oppressive heat that rippled under a cloudless sky.It was July 14, and the almanac would later peg the high at 100 degrees.

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