Grand Central Market's legendary Roast to Go closes, but a Oaxacan stall rises in its place

"Roast to Go served roast chickens, guisados, tacos and more from a stall at the center of the sprawling indoor market. Since its founding in 1952, the stand earned generations of fans - including late L.A. Times Food critic Jonathan Gold, who said, 'If they touch Roast to Go, I will be down there with a machete.'"

"Owner Sunnee Chung - who operated the stall for the last 20 years - decided to retire, in part due to health complications, and closed the restaurant in December. Grand Central Market owner Adam Daneshgar told The Times he wanted to maintain Roast to Go, even offering the stall's managers a path to ownership in an attempt to keep it going."

"Robles, who has dreamed of bringing his style of Oaxacan food to L.A., serves massive tlayudas, hearty braises, tacos, an al pastor trompo and more. Instead, Roast to Go's owner Sunnee Chung helped Olio Wood Fired Pizza owner and Oaxaca native Michael Robles take over the space, now called La Sandunga."

Roast to Go, operating since 1952 at Grand Central Market, served its final meal in December 2025 after nearly 75 years. Owner Sunnee Chung retired due to health complications. Grand Central Market owner Adam Daneshgar attempted to preserve the business by offering managers an ownership path, but no one accepted. The space now hosts La Sandunga, an Oaxacan restaurant operated by Michael Robles, an Oaxaca native and Olio Wood Fired Pizza owner. Robles serves tlayudas, braises, tacos, and al pastor. The closure prompted concern from historic-preservation advocates and food enthusiasts, including late L.A. Times food critic Jonathan Gold, who famously declared his devotion to protecting the beloved establishment.

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