At Dunsmoor, a bowl of pork and chile stew with fluffy tortillas has a story to tell

Of all the dishes at Dunsmoor restaurant in Glassell Park - cooked over a hearth at chef-owner Brian Dunsmoor's ode to regional American dining - the one that might leave the greatest impression is a humble bowl of stew.Tender chunks of pork shoulder are braised in an aromatic broth of onions, garlic, serrano chiles and, most notably, green Hatch chiles, which cut through the rich stew with their distinctive piquancy.

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