"Kaiseki is considered the most rarefied form of Japanese cuisine. Traditionally, it's a meal of many courses, each of which is devoted to the season. Once you're inside, the world recedes, and even though you're dining at a counter next to strangers, the staff make you feel like you're the only one there. The chawanmushi marries the soul of soup and the indulgence of custard."
"The hassun course is meant to set the tone for the meal. It's an array of delicacies, and it also gives the chef a chance to show his particular flair. The hassun on a November evening was anchored by a tiny whole crab, fried to a crisp. And then there was a monaka, which is a kind of wafer sandwich cookie stuffed with chunky tuna tartare and trout roe."
"A5 can sometimes almost be too rich. Here, it's just that right amount of melt. Only at the end is there a communal dish. The last savory course, donabe, which is rice. His donabe is bountiful, and Chef Yamada-san makes matcha for each guest. To go with dessert, there might be soy sauce ice cream that just tastes so earthy and unexpected, and there's always wagashi."
Yamada is a tiny kaiseki counter in Manhattan's Chinatown offering meticulously executed, seasonally oriented multi-course Japanese meals. Kaiseki appears as a sequence of delicate courses like chawanmushi, hassun, monaka, A5 beef, and donabe rice, accompanied by matcha and wagashi desserts. The dining experience is intimate; the counter setting and attentive staff create a private, immersive atmosphere even among strangers. Chef Yamada-san presents restrained yet striking flavors, precise textures, and thoughtful plating, with dishes that range from crisp fried crab to soy sauce ice cream. Repeated visits confirm consistent beauty and exacting standards.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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