"Where the Four Horsemen's menu wanders, beholden only to seasonality and Mr. Curtola's curiosity, at I Cavallini there's a narrower brief. The kitchen is pledged to Italy. For a chef whose instinct is to resist the familiar, maybe this is a little constricting. The space is gorgeous, but it feels a little bit like a stage set, a fantasy of a Brooklyn restaurant."
"There's a dish of beef tendons in Italian called nervetti, which is as gentle an introduction to this part of animal musculature as you would wish. The menu lists pastas as primi and meats as secondi, in the Italian way. You can make a meal just out of the pastas. They're quite generous, and really a highlight of the menu, especially the farafalonni big floppy bowties glossed with Calabrian chili butter matching these chewy strips of smoked pancetta."
I Cavallini is an Italian restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, that draws nightly lines of reverent diners. The menu narrows focus to Italian traditions rather than the seasonal wanderings of the chef's earlier Four Horsemen project. The kitchen pledges itself to Italy, producing generous pastas that serve as a highlight, notably farafalonni — big floppy bowties glossed with Calabrian chili butter and smoky pancetta. The menu also includes nervetti, a gentle presentation of beef tendons. The dining room is gorgeous yet feels slightly theatrical. Some dishes, like an all‑fat bluefin tuna belly, stumble, but the kitchen shows determination to push beyond the obvious.
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