"A jar of gherkins reminds me of the sea around the British Isles murky, seaweed-green and mysterious and of that bizarre marine animal, the sea cucumber (though sea gherkin would perhaps be more accurate, given how similar some species look). Gherkins also happen to be one of my favourite foods, though I usually eat them straight from the jar and rarely save any for all those recipes that benefit from their addition, from potato salads to bloody marys."
"I like a gherkin that puckers the mouth with a sour smack to the gustatory cortex. It should also be salty, but not overpoweringly so some of those I tested tasted of salt, vinegar and not much else. Aromatics such as onion, mustard and dill intensify when pickled, so how much is used needs to be well considered; too much mustard or black pepper, say, catches in the throat, while too much red pepper turns the liquor soupy. Dill, however, is essential."
"Ingredients aren't everything, though. How a product is farmed and processed is the key to quality. Many producers claim their gherkins are packed within 24 hours of picking, to maintain that crucial crunch, while others add calcium chloride, a salt that's used to keep pickles crisp. It's considered safe, but is it really needed? This tasting reminded me how delicious and useful gherkins are, and only enhanced my adoration for this ugly fruit."
Gherkins present a murky, seaweed-green appearance and are often eaten straight from the jar. Ideal gherkins pucker the mouth with sourness, are salty but not overpowering, and balance intensified pickled aromatics; dill is essential. Farming and processing determine quality: rapid packing within 24 hours preserves crucial crunch and some producers add calcium chloride to retain crispness. Leftover brine concentrates flavour and works well in dressings, sauces and as a meat brine. Supermarket recommendations single out Baxters whole gherkins for balanced sweetness, sourness and aromatic complexity.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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