Ishin's "My Style" Omakase Arrives in Midtown's Flashiest New Building

"There is an intimacy when chef Fuyuhiko Ito beckons you to pick up chopped squid nigiri right out of his hand at Ishin, his golden-hued omakase restaurant in Midtown. The dish is delicate, immediately falling apart in your mouth, and Ito stands there, inspecting your face, relishing every nod and smile. In the glitzy new Ten Twenty Spring building, Ishin sits on a rooftop, nestled beside Celestia, a cocktail lounge. Ito (formerly executive chef at Umi) and his wife, pastry chef Lisa Ito, own and run both places."

"The omakase ($275) nigiri stacks layers of salinity and sharp acid. Think blended soy sauces, good pinches of salt, and caviar for salinity; ponzu skin and juice, ginger, and red vinegar for tartness, used liberally but not off-balance with the fish and rice. The toro (fatty tuna belly), piled ridiculously high with shaved white and black truffles and caviar is an example of exuberance in overabundance. The wagyu nigiri with garlic chips ends the show in decadence, though the akami (lean tuna) is a highlight in simplicity and finesse."

"Glass pendant lights shaped like large sun hats dangle from the ceiling above the chefs, and low-fi house music fills the room from the live DJ at Celestia. A breathtaking view of Midtown is the backdrop from the floor-to-ceiling windows; the sweet, smoky scent of torched red miso settles on the counter. Ishin is glamorous, reminiscent of bougie Design District Miami and Buckhead's Umi. When asked if the omakase was traditional edomae or kaiseki-style, Ito responds, "It's my style," with a toothy smile. And it is."

Chef Fuyuhiko Ito runs Ishin, a rooftop omakase in Midtown, offering a $275 nigiri experience that balances layered salinity and sharp acid. Preparations use blended soy sauces, pinches of salt, caviar, ponzu skin and juice, ginger, and red vinegar applied liberally yet balanced with fish and rice. The toro arrives piled with shaved white and black truffles and caviar; wagyu nigiri finishes with garlic chips while akami showcases restraint. The space features glass pendant lights, low-fi house music from a neighboring DJ lounge, and sweeping Midtown views. Pastry chef Lisa Ito plates playful desserts, and a Japanese grill named Sozou will open on the first floor.

Read at Eater Atlanta