At Cerdito Muerto, Emidio Oceguera Plays by His Own Rules

"Emidio Oceguera has managed some of Chicago's best-known restaurants, including De Cero and Chicago Cut. When he began entertaining the idea of opening his own place, his parents kept him grounded. Their advice ultimately inspired him to launch the Pilsen restaurant Cerdito Muerto in his childhood neighborhood last summer. Oceguera brings unapologetic personal touches to the space and menu. In a Mexican food scene as rich as Chicago's, Oceguera isn't interested in chasing trends or being anything but himself."

"The restaurant has some inventive takes on a few classics, like the carrot tacos and the potato flautas, crispy on the outside and delightfully silky when you take a bite. The smash burger is two dry-aged prime beef patties with Chihuahua cheese and a pleasant kick of chorizo. The ultra-juicy Mediterranean branzino, slow-cooked in a cast-iron pan with lemon and oregano, is a fan-favorite."

"An evening at Cerdito Muerto feels like an intimate party. The space preserves the spirit of its former billiard-hall tenant with photos of Oceguera's father shooting pool and cues lining the walls. The soundtrack is '90s Mexican pop. You might spot doña Consuelo, Oceguera's mother, warmly chatting with guests. A first date or for small gatherings. The space is a tight 30 seats; larger groups might find it difficult to have a conversation due to the layout."

Emidio Oceguera opened Cerdito Muerto in Pilsen after a career managing notable Chicago restaurants. The restaurant features unapologetic personal touches tied to Oceguera's childhood and family. The menu offers inventive takes on Mexican classics, such as carrot tacos and potato flautas, alongside standout dishes like a dry-aged smash burger and Mediterranean branzino. The cocktail program includes tequila-forward riffs like an espresso Martínez and a liqueur-forward Vieux Carré. The compact 30-seat space retains elements of a former billiard hall, plays '90s Mexican pop, and often hosts friendly interactions with Oceguera's mother. The sign is subtle and the menu offers rare Mexican mineral water, Agua de Piedra.

Read at Eater Chicago