At the restaurant ILIS in Brooklyn, your smoked tomato and clam dashi arrives in a giant clamshell, sealed with beeswax and roped shut. At Naks in the East Village, bites of beef tartare on crisped beef fat are ferried to your table on a cow horn.
French tradition long dictated the clock rule: Place protein and sauce at 6, vegetables at 2, starch at 10, all on spotless white porcelain. When the Japanese-influenced nouvelle cuisine movement took off in the 1980s, chefs began removing heavy sauces and tidying up the food underneath.
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