Julie Powell Took Food Writing to a Franker, Darker Place
Briefly

At the end of the year that Julie Powell spent cooking every recipe (more or less) from Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking, she came to mayonnaise collee.It is a hand-whisked mayonnaise thickened with gelatin  a kind of stiff, salty garnish that was piped decoratively over aspics and the like in Mrs. Child's time.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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