Le Veau d'Or was much smaller and much less pretentious, recalled Mr. Gerber, 69. You could go here and have a great French meal for much less money. The new owners sought to refurbish the restaurant restoring its checked tablecloths and wood paneling but not redesign it.
Mr. Gerber said he loved the duck, whose skin crackled like a potato chip and sang with peppercorns, and the lobster, served chilled in its shell with tiny cubes of radish and fennel.
He observed that it was the same, low-slung dining room, but with shinier red banquettes, crisper checked tablecloths and cute touches like calf-shaped creamers repurposed as miniature planters.
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