But today, tonight, after five days' labor in the fetid heat of a New York City summer... Perhaps all I can do, all any one of us can do, is stare at the cans and boxes in the cupboard and wonder if there's a dinner in there among them, something to make quickly, with a minimum of fuss.
On a night when I'm right on the edge of despair, I like Melissa Clark's recipe for pasta with tuna, capers and scallions... The recipe title belies the simple complexity of the dish: canned tuna amped up with olive oil, garlic and anchovies, run through with lemon juice, heightened by red-pepper flakes and made fragrant with torn herbs and sliced scallions, everything tossed with long strands of spaghetti or bucatini until they're glistening in the steam.
I twirl that onto a plate and think: Made it. The dish, yes, but also through the week. Eat well in celebration, sleep deeply and, tomorrow, explore the new.
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