#onsen

#onsen

By the time I had strapped on my snowboard at the top of the King Gondola, the wind was howling and snow was coming down hard. Niseko, a ski resort on Japan's northern island of Hokkaido, is known for epic snowfall, and my first run lived up to the hype. My knees felt wobbly as I plowed 3,500 feet down the mountain through fresh powder, barely able to see the ground beneath me, let alone the skiers whizzing past.

It can, however, just as easily overwhelm, meaning most visitors can get their fill simply by sticking to the "Central" region. Here, modernity rubs lightly up against traditional Japanese ryokans (or guesthouses) and an abundance of natural beauty. Come winter, this region-specifically Niseko-becomes an international ski resort, boasting world-class powder snow. In summer, however, the snow lifts like a serviette from a picnic, and Hokkaido is transformed with cinematic national parks, sprawling flower fields, and volcanic hot spots.