When the Grand Sumo Tournament arrived in London this October, the city reacted as if a global pop star had touched down. For five days, the Royal Albert Hall transformed into a dohyō (sumo ring), alive with roaring crowds. It was a collision of worlds: ancient Japanese ritual unfolding in a Victorian concert hall usually reserved for symphony orchestras. Sumo's first visit to London in 34 years sparked an electric response.
And for the record, Japan is a lot. Despite being smaller than Texas, it's packed with things to see, do and - arguably most importantly - eat. Which is why I approached our itinerary with the kind of care most people reserve for wedding planning or moving house. I tapped industry friends, scoured reviews and cross-referenced more "best of" lists than I'd like to admit. What follows isn't just the result of that legwork - it is the legwork.