It's a very energetic time for Champagne, which is exploding with new talent. The new generation is free to explore all manners of winemaking, including adding little or no sulfur, using ambient yeast for fermentation, oxidative aging and more.
It feels like the conversation has shifted when we talk about Champagne with guests in the restaurant. It has been more about Champagne as a wine with bubbles, and how it will pair with their food, just like we would talk about any other type of wine.
People don't want what they can actually have. You would be shocked. The quantity that we get is like 60 or 120 bottles. We have a lot of good customers that we have to say no to because there really is just that little.
A movement that began a few decades ago, when droves of small grape farmers stopped selling their precious bounty to the big brands and started making the wine themselves, has reached a crescendo, with more ultra-high-quality, site-specific and responsibly farmed wine being produced now than ever before.
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