Hong Kong Looks Inward to Reinvent Itself
Briefly

The article highlights the impactful culinary journey of chef ArChan Chan, who returned to Hong Kong to revive traditional Cantonese dishes at the restaurant Ho Lee Fook. Despite its modern and fusion-oriented menu, Chan's focus is on serving the soul of classic Cantonese flavors, even reintroducing ingredients like dong quai into mainstream dining. Her culinary philosophy prompts reflection on the idea of cultural preservation in a rapidly changing city, making every meal a poignant blend of nostalgia and contemporary challenge.
The chef, ArChan Chan, returned to her native Hong Kong to focus on finding the soul in traditional dishes that her guests' parents and grandparents would recognize.
Ho Lee Fook is famous for cheeky, fusion-y flavor bombs like prawn toast dressed up with Japanese mayo but also showcases deeply Cantonese flavors.
Chan has devoted herself to preserving Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, raising questions about what preservation means in a city constantly reinventing itself.
The meal, especially a dish of chicken in clear soup, exemplified Chan's vision and connection to traditional Cantonese dishes amidst Hong Kong's evolution.
Read at Conde Nast Traveler
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