Portland has gained recognition as a premier Thai food destination, exemplified by Langbaan's 2024 James Beard Awards win and the varied, hyper-regional Thai cuisine available. Restaurants focus on distinct regional dishes, such as Thai-Chinese offerings from Yaowarat and southern fried chicken. Neighborhood takeout options exceed typical standards, driven by local demand. Chef Akkapong "Earl" Ninsom exemplifies this with his specialized restaurants that highlight Thailand's culinary diversity, including Hat Yai, which features popular fried chicken dishes known for their unique flavors and textures.
Ninsom's defining move as a restaurateur is to go all-in on specificity, tightening his focus to distinct regions of Thailand and teaching Portland the nuances of its many distinct cuisines.
The average neighborhood takeout in Portland is a few notches above what you'd find in other parts of the country, thanks to the city's insatiable thirst for khao soi and pad kee mao.
Ninsom partnered with Langbaan alum Alan Akwai to create a tiny counter-service restaurant on NE Killingsworth specializing in the cuisine of Southern Thailand, which has remained popular since opening.
Hat Yai-style fried chicken at Ninsom's restaurant is moist and tender, with a thin, crispy rice and tapioca flour breading, fragrant with cumin and coriander.
#thai-cuisine #portland-restaurants #culinary-diversity #james-beard-awards #regional-specialization
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