Zoning in on Menilmontant, Paris: bohemian, arty and off the tourist trail'
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Zoning in on Menilmontant, Paris: bohemian, arty and off the tourist trail'
"Menilmontant was once a rural hamlet with vines and farms, before becoming more industrial in the 19th century. The quartier boasts a united, colourful community whose working-class Parisian roots have long been integrated with a strong north African diaspora. Bohemian, arty and socially committed, it remains off the tourist trail with no notable museums or monuments; it's just a genuinely Parisian neighbourhood."
"Monsieur Abdelkrim created the Cantine 20 years ago, to bring the culture of Algeria to Paris, initially through our cuisine, serving traditional dishes from our bleds (rural villages) that were unknown to French people. Over the years, the bistrot has became an unofficial cultural centre to discover the music, art and poetry of our Berbere people."
"I could not have been made more welcome when I came to Menilmontant, and am proud today that nearly all our customers are locals. Chez les Deux Amis Brocante features a cosmopolitan kitchen brigade who create a raft of vegetarian meze, crispy durum, spicy kofte and sticky-sweet baklava under the oversight of chef Beyaz Balta."
Menilmontant, situated between Belleville's Chinatown and Père-Lachaise cemetery, evolved from a rural hamlet with vineyards and farms into an industrial area during the 19th century. The neighbourhood maintains a united, colourful community blending working-class Parisian heritage with strong North African diaspora influence. Characterized by bohemian, artistic, and socially committed residents, it remains largely off the tourist circuit without major museums or monuments, preserving genuine Parisian character. Recently named one of Time Out's World's Coolest Neighbourhoods for 2025, locals remain bemused by the recognition. The area offers inexpensive, hearty, multi-ethnic dining options, including La Cantine des Hommes Libres, a retro bistrot serving traditional Algerian cuisine, and Chez les Deux Amis Brocante, featuring vegetarian meze and diverse international dishes.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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